green, green, green and...green

...is not only the name of the fresh new frangrance I picked up from Parisian designers Miller et Bertaux (http://www.milleretbertaux.com), but it also seems to be the theme of my week. Between lush gardens and the most famous green liquor of them all (oh yes, and a day-long stomach virus that left me feeling a nasty shade of green), things are positively verdant.

On Wednesday, I finally had the heart to leave Paris. It wasn’t easy, I’ll tell you. I extended my stay twice, and if I hadn't made definite plans in the Alsace region that required pre-payment, I might be in Paris still. But as I sat on the platform in the Gare de l’Est, on a train bound for Strasbourg, my heart did a little dance. Isn’t this why I had come to Europe in the first place? To discover new destinations and experiences? Not that I hadn’t made many delightful discoveries in Paris over the past week. It's just that it was time I expanded my boundaries a bit.

Those who know me well, know that my wine drinking tastes tend toward Rieslings and Gewürztraminers (Rob at the RCOP bar needs only to see me walk in to have a glass of my favorite Riesling waiting for me). So I’m stoked to be touring the Alsace region where many of these wines are produced - from what I’m told the dryer versions (the sweeter ones come from the German side of the border). In any case, let's just say I have high hopes for next few days!

And speaking of a lack of sobriety, I stopped into an interesting shop in Paris that I happened upon by chance. I’d noticed a really picturesque square in the Marais that I hadn’t visited before, popped over to see it up close, and found a tiny shop dedicated entirely to Absinthe. That’s right folks, “the green fairy," inspiration of Oscar Wilde, Vincent Van Gogh, and Ernest Hemingway, still banned for sale in the U.S., the stuff of lore. Before you start placing your orders, I have a feeling U.S. customs regulations may have issues with the number of bottles I'd be bringing in if I had to carry for all of you, but I do fly home from Paris, so just maybe I'll find room in my checked luggage for a bottle or two to share with friends (and you know who you are :) If you want to check out the store yourself, its is Vert d’Absinthe (11 rue d'Ormesson 75004 Paris, Metro St. Paul; 33 1 42 71 69 73; http://www.vertdabsinthe.com ; contact@vertdabsinthe.com) .

As I leave Paris (for now), let me share a few favorite places. I promise I won’t waste you time with all the sites you can find in any guidebook, except to say if you haven't been to Sainte-Chapelle, make a bee-line on your next stop in Paris, and pray for a sunny day. Its like being inside a jewel box - a tiny chapel all stained glass - a magical experience. The last time I was in Paris, I was so enchanted with it by day, that I attended an evening cello concert there as well.

What I really want to share with you is a little black book of a few quality addresses. These spots are pleasant and worth every Euro you pay. You will find English-speaking staff for those of you, who (like me) rely on high-school French to get by. And you will always receive a warm welcome. But I'm also always looking for value, so the hotels are not the Ritz and the restaurants may not have Michelin stars. Occasionally, for fun, I'll throw in a splurge.

Hotel Caron de Beaumarchais is in the 4th Arrondissement in the heart of the Marais, once the Jewish district, now indisputably Paris’ “gayborhood.” Its also where up-and-coming fashion designers set up shop, a little like Soho was 10 years ago before its mallification. It has a vibrant street and café scene and is centrally located, truly in the middle of Paris. The Hotel Caron de Beaumarchais is a warm and welcoming family-run inn, that has been decorated entirely with 18th-century antiques and some reproductions. Stepping inside sets you a world apart from the bustling scene outside, a welcome and restful oasis of calm in this frenetic corner of Paris. This graceful hotel is named after Pierre-Augustin Caron de Beaumarchais, who in 1784 wrote the Marriage of Figaro, the source of Mozart’s comic opera. The lobby and rooms are filled with gilded mirrors, rich brocades, ornate antique furniture, flickering faux candlelight, exposed beams, and ephemera from Caron de Beaumarchais.

Yet modern conveniences abound - an elevator (very tiny though), ac, flat screen tv, and wireless internet. I love their Roger & Gallet bath products (http://www.roger-gallet.com/), and that they’re thoughtful enough to provide bathrobes at these prices. The hotel is an easy 10 minute walk from Notre Dame Cathedral and about a 25 minute walk along the Seine (with a view of the Eiffel Tower nearly the entire way) to the Louvre - really, what could be better than that? With only 19 rooms, the hotel is often fully booked far in advance, so it is prudent to make your reservations as soon as you know your trip dates. The Caron de Beaumarchais is located at 12 rue Vielle-du-Temple (at the intersection of rue-de-Rivoli) 33 1 42 72 34 12 ; hotel@carondebeaumarchais.com; www.carondebeaumarchais.com. A bargain at 130-150 Euro per night (150 Euro bought me a room with a balcony !)

If you’re in the mood for a beverage to soothe your jagged nerves after your flight or seeing the prices at Chanel up close and personal, then I have just the place for you. The tea shop to end all tea shops - Mariage Freres - has been warming the hearts (and tummys) of Parisians since 1854, and with hundreds of different blends of teas its no wonder they’re still at it. You can get black teas and green teas and white teas. Simple teas and complex teas. Teas you’ve heard of before and teas with such suggestive names as “The de poetes solitaires” or “Genghis Khan.” On my first day in Paris, I tried the auspiciously named "Le Voyageur," described in Mariage Freres’ “Catalogue du The” this way: “In honor of enchanted travellers, this distinguished blend symbolizes escape and freedom. It subtly combines the finest ‘teas of the mountain mists’ with the ‘most refined ‘teas beneath the clouds’ underscored by an unforgettable fragrance. A spur to voyagers.” Next time, I want to try "The Sur Le Nil": “A Whiff of Adventure, this blend will take you to the end of the world, where thoughts of enchanted voyagers dwell. Citrus fruits from forgotten lands and refined spices wonderfully scent this fine green tea. A flight of fancy. A timeless tea.” I mean, who cares if the teas are good? The descriptions alone are worth the price of admission. And if you really want to know, the inside of Mariage Freres has a shop selling its teas with aproned shopkeepers pulling down jars of whichever teas you choose, as well as the tearoom itself with a buttercup colored solarium, where you can treat yourself to an expensive but elegant brunch or lunch including little floral salads and decadent pastries , while listening to opera. Yes its charming (you better get used to that word, because its apropos of a lot of what I’m seeing in France). Mariage Freres’ flagship location is at 30 & 35 rue du Bourg-Tibour in the Marais, but now also has branches throughout Paris (and Tokyo)! (www.mariagefreres.com; 33 1 43 47 18 54)

If its traditional French cuisine you want, of course there are hundreds of wonderful places in Paris. But I literally stumbled upon a terrific little restaurant with a daily chalkboard menu, and let me tell you, not to sound like Rachael Ray, but “Yum”! The place is called le bistrot d’Henri. It’s located at 16 rue Princesse between rue du Four and rue Guisarde very close to Saint Sulpice in the 6th Arrondissement (Saint Germain des Pres area; Metro: Mabillon. 33 1 46 33 51 12.)

My first night there, I had lamb brochette with basmati rice that had a very light Roquefort cream sauce (on the plate only), and fresh chevre with olive oil and tappande to start. Many people around me were ordering the coq au vin which looked and smelled divine. I thought I might get it if I returned. Alas, when I did come back the next night, it wasn’t part of the specials menu. I was very pleased however with another lamb dish, a leg of lamb cooked for 7 hours in cinnamon and spices. So tender it fell off the bone. I started with pate de foie gras. And ended with crème caramel. Even with a glass of champagne and dessert, my meal came only to 40 Euro. The fact that le bistrot d'Henri was fully packed with Frenchmen by 8:30 probably speaks for itself. So do yourself a favor. Yes, go to whatever new hip place you’ve heard about. Go to whatever traditional brasserie was recommended in your guidebook. Book a table at the Jules Verne 2 months in advance for the view and the bragging rights. But for a delicious Parisian meal in a cozy atmosphere that won’t break the budget, set aside a night for Le Bistrot d’Henri.

By the way, a few doors down the street from Le Bistrot d’Henri is a terrific English-language bookstore called the Village Voice. (6, rue Princese, 75006; 33 1 46 33 36 47; http://www.villagevoicebookshop.com/) I’ve been to a lot of other, better-known, English-language bookstores in Paris, and found them to be cramped and not well organized. This one - while not enormous - is roomy enough to browse comfortably, very well lit, and superbly organized. Although I didn’t make it there myself, my good friend Eamon also recommended a Canadian bookstore called The Abbey Bookshop (29, rue de la Parcheminerie, 75005 Paris, 33 1 46 33 16 24).

If you're staying in the Marais, and want to do some shopping, one great route is north along rue Vielle-du-Temple then east along rue des Francs Bourgeios which will lead you directly to the Place des Vosges, one of the most beautiful squares in Paris. Along the way, stop into one of my very favorite shops for women's clothing and accessories, a la bonne renommee. ( 26, rue Vielle-du-Temple, 75004; a.la.bonne.rnommee@wanadoo.fr; htp://www.labonnerenommee.com/us/index.html; 33 1 42 72 03 86

With their use of jewel toned fabric, accompanied by broad bands of brightly hued ribbon as an integral part of design, along with the occasional fur accent, the result is something you might find in Mongolia(by way of the Champs-Elysees). These designs do not come cheap - a pair of gloves will set you back 110 Euro. But you can bet nobody else at the bake sale will be wearing the same hat you've got on when you're sporting one of these creations!

And when you're ready to get away from the hustle and bustle of Paris, not that I can really imagine that, but for arugment's sake, say your are - visit Giverny, where Claude Monet painted his famous water lilies. The drive through the villages of Normandy totally exceeded my expectations - charming villages, churches from the 12th century, castles that rambled down hillsides with their additions spanning centuries, flowerboxes and fountains, and fields of creamy cows. Our driver told us how the impressionists one by one left Paris to paint in this region, Monet, Millet, Courbet, Boudin, and Vuillard. Monet bought Giverny when he was in his sixties and spent the rest of his life devoted to painting and gardening. The Japanese Gardens are home to Monet’s famed and oft-painted water lilies and Japanese arched bridges. To see them in person is like visiting an old friend, his impressions of them were so evocative.

So as I move on - certainly not to greener pastures - but to different ones, I smile and remember someone who once told me, "We'll always have Paris." And its true, we will. And now, so will I.