Greetings from Asbury Park, N.J.
For me - as for most Philadelphians, I suspect - the phrase "down the shore" conjures up images of that stretch of sand south of Atlantic City: clams at Smitty's in Somers Point, cover bands at Ocean Drive in Sea Isle, piping hot pizza at Mack & Mancos on the Ocean City boardwalk. This is the terrain of my earliest childhood memories - all sandcastles and sea-breeze and saltwater taffy - and later, the site of my misspent youth (is anyone else old enough to remember Quarter beers at Kelly's in Margate?).
It never really occurred to me that there was more to the Shore. Yes, I had friends who summered on Long Beach Island - places with evocative names like Loveladies, Harvey Cedars and Barnegat Light. And of course there was the quasi-fictional Jersey Shore of Snooki and The Situation which I could safely disdain from a distance. But the idea that there was an undiscovered place on New Jersey's coastline that might hold something more for me hadn't really crossed my mind.Then a friend invited me to Asbury Park and all that changed.
If you know Asbury Park at all, it's probably as the hometown of Bruce Springsteen. Or maybe you remembered there were race riots there in the early 1970's. Or perhaps you picked up on the reports of its slow, steady decline culminating in the demolition of Palace Amusements - inspiration for Springsteen's Tunnel of Love - whose place on the National Register of Historic Places failed to save it from the wrecking ball.
But it turns out that Asbury Park is a hard luck story with a happy ending or, at the very least, the promise of one.
Though it's impossible to say exactly what has turned things around - hipsters with their love of retro splendor mixed with seedy decay, gays who embraced a beach town they could help revive, or perhaps just adventurous travelers looking for an undiscovered, uncrowded seaside destination - there is definitely a beating heart in Asbury Park.
The town's vibrancy is centered in two distinct spots: a five-block boardwalk flanked by the remnants of glorious Art Deco arcades right out of Boardwalk Empire and the small business district along Cookman Avenue.
The low-key charm of the boardwalk is in its very randomness: shipping containers serve as changing rooms; a vintage Howard Johnson's restaurant is a lively night spot; impromptu magic shows and street performers vie with palm readers and "starving" artists. There's even a museum exhibiting photographs of nearly every celebrity who's ever hailed from New Jersey (and featuring Jack Nicholson's 2nd Grade report card - apparently even then he need to work on his self-control). Restaurants range from a sausage shack ("It's not a party until the sausage comes out" reads one cook's T-shirt) to the slick Stella Marina, an Italian spot that would be right at home in Manhattan.
The business district is like Northern Liberties at the shore: shops selling vintage finds abut jazz clubs; creative menus and microbrews on tap are de rigueur at bars and restaurants that wouldn't be out of place at the Piazza at Schmidts; and public art and live performances enliven the streets. This is a place where a vacant lot filled with pilings from a failed urban renewal project can inspire site specific art.
An unexpected highlight of my recent visit was discovering Sweet Joey's, a father-son enterprise specializing in custom-made jeans and vintage apparel.
While Joey Pisch, a trained optician, shows off lovingly assembled vintage goods - including a particularly enticing collection of antique (1950's-1970's) designer and artfully re-crafted new sunglasses,
his father, Vlad, tailors hand-made jeans that even the most design-conscious fashionista would covet.
I succumbed to temptation and left with a pair of bright yellow vintage frames that debuted on the beach the next day.
And if making a weekend of all this seems like a bit of a stretch, consider this. Asbury Park's neighboring town, Ocean Grove, is Cape May without the kitsch. Established as a Methodist Camp Meeting community, Ocean Grove is a Victorian wonderland, all Painted Ladies and gingerbread.
It's also the perfect place to check into a Bed & Breakfast and enjoy some nostalgia within easy walk (down the boardwalk or over the footbridge that spans Wesley Lake) of Asbury Park.
Be forewarned, its Methodist roots are still very much on display: the town is dry and if you're not careful you may walk into the middle of a revival meeting. But even an atheist can appreciate Ocean Grove's old-time charm.
Stay: Carriage House B&B - Gracious hospitality and a sumptuous breakfast (chocolate bread pudding, anyone?) from hosts Kathi and Phil Franco.
Eat: Taka - This bustling Asian fusion features the culinary creations of chef Takahio Hirai. From sushi to short ribs, you won't be disappointed.
Drink: Brickwall Tavern - Belly up to the bar for a wide selection of microbrews and a menu that mixes unexpected ingredients (a watermelon, black olive salad for example).
Shop: Sweet Joey's - Whether you want retro Americana (e.g. a carefully curated selection of vintage t-shirts) or custom made denim jeans, this shop will have you happily reaching for your wallet.
Nightlife: The Stone Pony - If you want a chance to catch some talent before they collect their Grammys, check out the live music at The Stone Pony, which has featured rising stars like Bruce Springsteen and Jon Bon Jovi.
But it turns out that Asbury Park is a hard luck story with a happy ending or, at the very least, the promise of one.
Though it's impossible to say exactly what has turned things around - hipsters with their love of retro splendor mixed with seedy decay, gays who embraced a beach town they could help revive, or perhaps just adventurous travelers looking for an undiscovered, uncrowded seaside destination - there is definitely a beating heart in Asbury Park.
The town's vibrancy is centered in two distinct spots: a five-block boardwalk flanked by the remnants of glorious Art Deco arcades right out of Boardwalk Empire and the small business district along Cookman Avenue.
The low-key charm of the boardwalk is in its very randomness: shipping containers serve as changing rooms; a vintage Howard Johnson's restaurant is a lively night spot; impromptu magic shows and street performers vie with palm readers and "starving" artists. There's even a museum exhibiting photographs of nearly every celebrity who's ever hailed from New Jersey (and featuring Jack Nicholson's 2nd Grade report card - apparently even then he need to work on his self-control). Restaurants range from a sausage shack ("It's not a party until the sausage comes out" reads one cook's T-shirt) to the slick Stella Marina, an Italian spot that would be right at home in Manhattan.
The business district is like Northern Liberties at the shore: shops selling vintage finds abut jazz clubs; creative menus and microbrews on tap are de rigueur at bars and restaurants that wouldn't be out of place at the Piazza at Schmidts; and public art and live performances enliven the streets. This is a place where a vacant lot filled with pilings from a failed urban renewal project can inspire site specific art.
An unexpected highlight of my recent visit was discovering Sweet Joey's, a father-son enterprise specializing in custom-made jeans and vintage apparel.
While Joey Pisch, a trained optician, shows off lovingly assembled vintage goods - including a particularly enticing collection of antique (1950's-1970's) designer and artfully re-crafted new sunglasses,
his father, Vlad, tailors hand-made jeans that even the most design-conscious fashionista would covet.
I succumbed to temptation and left with a pair of bright yellow vintage frames that debuted on the beach the next day.
And if making a weekend of all this seems like a bit of a stretch, consider this. Asbury Park's neighboring town, Ocean Grove, is Cape May without the kitsch. Established as a Methodist Camp Meeting community, Ocean Grove is a Victorian wonderland, all Painted Ladies and gingerbread.
It's also the perfect place to check into a Bed & Breakfast and enjoy some nostalgia within easy walk (down the boardwalk or over the footbridge that spans Wesley Lake) of Asbury Park.Be forewarned, its Methodist roots are still very much on display: the town is dry and if you're not careful you may walk into the middle of a revival meeting. But even an atheist can appreciate Ocean Grove's old-time charm.
Stay: Carriage House B&B - Gracious hospitality and a sumptuous breakfast (chocolate bread pudding, anyone?) from hosts Kathi and Phil Franco.
Eat: Taka - This bustling Asian fusion features the culinary creations of chef Takahio Hirai. From sushi to short ribs, you won't be disappointed.
Drink: Brickwall Tavern - Belly up to the bar for a wide selection of microbrews and a menu that mixes unexpected ingredients (a watermelon, black olive salad for example).
Shop: Sweet Joey's - Whether you want retro Americana (e.g. a carefully curated selection of vintage t-shirts) or custom made denim jeans, this shop will have you happily reaching for your wallet.
Nightlife: The Stone Pony - If you want a chance to catch some talent before they collect their Grammys, check out the live music at The Stone Pony, which has featured rising stars like Bruce Springsteen and Jon Bon Jovi.
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